Situated on the crossroads of historical and
strategic sea lanes, the province of South Sulawesi constitutes
the narrow south-western peninsula of this mountainous,
orchid-shaped island. The capital and chief trading port
of the Province, Ujung Pandang, is still the gateway to
eastern Indonesia.
Spanish and Portuguese galleons, followed by
British and Dutch traders sailed these seas in search of
the spice trade, escorted by their men of war to protect
them against the daring raids of the Bugis and Makassar
sailors who attacked the intruders. Famed for their seafaring
culture, the Bugis are still driving force behind the world's
last commercial sailing fleet. Bugis vessels have sailed
as far as Australia, leaving behind drawings of their ships
on stone and words that have since been integrated into
the Aboriginal language of northern Australia.
The seafaring Bugis dominate the southern tip
of Sulawesi, but further north, trough rugged and remarkable
country is Tana Toraja, often referred to as the "Land
of the Heavenly Kings" whose unique culture rivals
any in the archipelago.
A believe that their forefathers descended from
heaven on a boat onto mountain some twenty generations ago,
The Toraja have unique culture based on strong animistic
beliefs. They practice an ancestor cult where death and
afterlife ceremonies are great feasts. A strict hierarchy
is followed in the villages and for an important figure,
wedding and burial ceremonies, can take days to perform
buffalo are sacrificed, the deceased's remains are placed
in a coffin and interred in caves hollowed out in high cliffs.
The mouth of the cave is guarded by lifelike statues, who
diligently look out from a balcony at the families and friends
they have left.
Tongkonan, family houses, are built on stilts
with the roof rearing up at either end, representing the
prows of the first ship to arrive in the area with the Torajan's
ancestors. The houses all face north and some say that this
because it was from the north that the ancestors of the
Toraja came. Others, however will say that the north (and
east) are regarded as the realm of the gods, the compass
of life.
South Sulawesi is also famous for its tremendous
scenery and the quality and talent of its silk and silver
work industries, but the economy is largely based on agriculture.
The provincial capital of Ujung Pandang, formerly Makassar,
however, has excellent facilIties for water sports and is
easily accessible by air. There are four daily flight from
Jakarta and also daily services from Bali, Surabaya and
Manado.