Chinese chronicles from as early as the sixth century speak of a kingdom called Po-Li on the northern tip of what is now Sumatra. Arabic writings and Indian inscriptions from around the 9th century also mention this area and its obvious importance. Of all the regions in Indonesia, Aceh, at the northwestern end of Sumatra, is the first to have contact and be influenced by the outside world. Ironically, it is still one of the least known regions of Indonesia, even among Indonesians themselves.

Aceh has a fascinating history which over the centuries has shaped and transformed the region into what it is today. In 1292, Marco Polo, on his epic voyage from China visited Sumatra on his way to Persia and reported that in the northern part of the island there were as many as six busy trading ports including Perlak, Samudera and lambri. The first Islamic kingdom of Perlak was established in the year 804 about 100 years after Islam is first believed to have reached the archipelago. In 1511, the Portuguese seized the important strategic port of Malacca, pushing many Asian and Arabic traders to call instead on the developing port of Aceh, bringing with them wealth and prosperity. Aceh's dominance in trade and politics in northern parts of Sumatra and in the entire region had begun and would last until it reached its zenith between 1610 and 1640.

Aceh's decline began with the death of Sultan Iskandar Thani in 1641, and as a result the British and Dutch both began vying for domination of the area. Eventually the signing of the London Treaty in 1824 saw the Dutch gain control of all British possessions in Sumatra in return for their surrender of enterprises in India and withdrawal of all claims on Singapore.

The Dutch found gaining control of Aceh to be more difficult than they had anticipated. It was a long drawn out struggle for the Dutch in their attempts to subdue the rebellious and courageous Acehnese. The Aceh War, which lasted intermittently from 1873 to 1942, was the longest ever fought by the Dutch costing them over 10,000 lives.

Things are different now as industrialization and global communications have made contact with the outside world a daily occurrence and with it has come a more open attitude towards things alien. Visitors should keep in mind, though, that the Acehnese take their religion, their manners and their morals very seriously.

For many years, travel in this part of Indonesia has been restricted by the Government due to separatist rebel activities. More recently, on 26 December 2004, the coastal portions of the area were devastated by a huge earthquake tsunami, which is estimated to have killed up to 90% of the population in the affected area and completely devastated coastal infrastructure (including the capital city of Banda Aceh). After the tsunami, a communal housing development was built, which has led to many concerns over privacy and personal hygiene. Road conditions are still quite poor heading from Medan to Banda Aceh, in addition to any other concerns over safety. Flying directly into Banda Aceh from Medan is the preferred mode of transportation (though this requires special permission; see below.).

Currently, the Indonesian Government is working with local militia to disarm weapons, with mixed success over concerns on both sides. A vote of independence will be held in Banda Aceh on September 15, 2005 and much suspicion currently surrounds "westerners" travelling throughout Aceh and around Banda Aceh in particular. Several individuals have been arrested as spies. Special visas from the Indonesian government are required of most foreign visitors entering Aceh province, and sometimes, police escorts are in effect.

Unless you are an accredited aid worker, travel in this area is not advised at present (January 2005), and is done at your own risk.

The largest portion of Leuser National Park is in Aceh Province, and provides habitat for many endangered species, including the Sumatran Tiger and forest Rhinoceros. Treks in this park were very popular before the current fighting.